Palas de Rei to Arzua

I wonder what really makes someone a pilgrim? Is it leaving home in search of something greater? Is it journeying to a sacred place in which you find great value. As seven of us stormed up a hill with many hot spots, all with sore feet and probably 26km down on this beautiful Thursday, an Italian family looked at us and screamed, "No mochilos, no mochilos, no es pilgrims, no camino!" We have vehicle help and do not carry all of our luggage.

I understand that there are many people on this trail and on this journey who believe that only real pilgrims carry their own packs and sleep in Albergues. But why? As the Italians began cursing me, although I am sure they were in a way joking with us, with lots of truth behind what they were saying, how could it be in the pilgrim spirit to judge others? What makes one person´s journey better or more justified than someone else´s journey?

All of us were still in good spirits. Even a bunch of high school students understand that people only say things such as that to make themselves better, but I wish I hadn´t heard it none the less. Apparently a German pilgrim had told a few others in our group they weren´t real pilgrims. By the end of the day we had hiked 70 kilometers in three days and I was beginning to feel as a pilgrim. Many songs, jokes, and improve raps had kept our spirits high and the pilgrim bond between our group was beginning to pull each other through. I honestly believe at the end of the first day that several pilgrims in our group wouldn´t make it, but by the end of the day, I am sure, baring no major catastrophes, that our group will finish in Santiago by Saturday afternoon.